Monstera deliciosa, commonly recognized as the split-leaf philodendron or Swiss cheese plant, is a tropical species frequently cultivated as an indoor plant. This effortlessly thriving, climbing evergreen is a popular choice in many stylish interiors due to its impressive visual appeal. Characterized by its glossy, heart-shaped split leaves, the Monstera deliciosa stands out as a statement plant. With a rapid growth rate of approximately 1 to 2 feet per year, it typically takes around three years for a monstera to reach full maturity.
Watering
Provide the plant with consistent waterings throughout the growing season, usually every one to two weeks. Water until excess water drains through the container's drainage holes, but avoid returning the surplus water to the plant's container, as it has already absorbed the necessary amount. Allow the soil to slightly dry out between waterings. During the fall and winter, water only occasionally. To enhance indoor humidity, use a spray bottle filled with demineralized water or rainwater to mist the plant's foliage.
Location
Monstera deliciosa thrives in temperatures ranging from 65°-85° F (18°-30°C), with a tolerance down to 50° F and up to 90° F. However, growth may cease at these temperature extremes. This evergreen plant favors high humidity, around 60%. Ensure its leaves stay moist by misting daily or using a humidifier. Be cautious of excessive direct light in warmer months, as it can lead to foliage burn. Yet, exposing indoor plants to direct sunlight outdoors at least once a year promotes lush growth. In outdoor settings, they can thrive in the full shade of deep woodlands or the semi-shade of light forests.
Soil
When cultivated in a container, Monstera deliciosa thrives best in peat or coco coir based potting media. In outdoor settings, it adapts well to light sandy, medium loamy, and heavy clay soils with either acid or neutral pH. However, it flourishes most in well-drained and moderately moist soil. Notably, you may observe intricate aerial roots emerging from the soil, serving the plant by providing support to the stems that bear leaves, some of which can extend up to 3 feet in length.
Fertilizing
Opt for a balanced liquid fertilizer with a ratio of 20-20-20 to nourish the plant every few weeks throughout the growing season. Dilute 1/2 tsp. of the fertilizer in a gallon of water. Substitute this diluted fertilizer for regular watering by pouring the mixture into the soil until it starts to flow out of the drainage holes. Discard any excess diluted fertilizer, as the plant has absorbed what it requires, and the surplus drainage cannot be utilized.
Pruning
If aerial roots become excessively unruly for the space, it's acceptable to trim them, although tucking them back into the pot is the preferred method. Unlike certain other houseplants, the roots of Monstera deliciosa do not cause damage to surfaces. Both stems and leaves respond positively to trimming and can be utilized for propagation purposes.
Propagating
Monstera deliciosa can be easily propagated by stem cuttings from pruning. However, the most popular method of propagating Monstera deliciosa is air layering. Here are the steps for both methods:
To propagate with stem cuttings:
- Using a clean, sharp pruning shear, cut off a stem that includes a node (a little bump where the roots will emerge), an aerial root, and at least two leaves.
- Put a dash of ground cinnamon (the usual spice you can get at the grocery store) on the mother plant where you cut. This will prevent the disease from entering the cut and help the wound heal.
- Put the cutting in a glass of water. Change the water every three to five days, and if possible, use filtered water or rainwater over tap water.
- You will see a clump of roots growing in a couple of months. At that point, you can put your new plant in a pot with fresh soil and keep it moist as it establishes itself in its new home.
To propagate with air layering: The mother plant may not look attractive for a while, but getting a healthy new plant is worth it. Air layering is a preferred low-risk method because you're not cutting the mother plant until the baby is ready to be put in a pot with new roots. You'll need floral or sphagnum moss, a plastic bag or wrap, and twist ties for this method.
- Find a stem with a couple of nodes (where the roots will grow). Or, find a leaf growing out of a stem with a short aerial root below it.
- Cut a small notch about 1/3 of the stem's width below that root.
- Wrap a 1-inch layer of sphagnum moss around where the leaf joins the stem.
- Spray the moss with water to increase moisture, and wrap it in plastic. Use twist ties to secure it (it may look a little messy, which is okay).
- Ensure the moss can remain moist until the roots develop.
- When roots develop in a few months, you can cut (with a clean, sharp tool) the stem below the roots and establish the young plant, with its roots, in a fresh pot of soil.
- Don't forget to pat ground cinnamon on the wound created by the mother plant. This will stop any disease from entering the cut and help the wound heal.
Common Issues
Maintaining the cleanliness of the plant and deterring pests can be achieved by wiping dust or debris off the leaves using a damp sponge or paper towel. Nevertheless, potential pests that may infest the plant include sap-sucking mealybugs, aphids (plant lice), cigar-shaped thrips, scale insects, and spider mites. If any of these pests are detected on the foliage, spraying the plant with a direct stream of water is recommended. Alternatively, leaves can be washed with insecticidal soap for effective pest management
A yellow halo surrounding brown spots or tips on your plant indicates a fungal infection. Remove the affected leaves, allow the plant to dry out before watering, as the fungus may have developed due to overwatering or prolonged exposure to excessively wet soil.
Yellowing leaves signify dry soil, with the oldest leaves typically turning yellow first. Remove affected leaves, and if you observe dry, crispy spots, check the soil. If it's extremely dry, provide a thorough watering.
Wilting leaves signal a watering issue, indicating either overwatering or underwatering. Check the topsoil; if it's dry, the plant is underwatered. Curling leaves suggest low humidity; address this by misting the leaves regularly, placing the plant near a humidifier, and keeping it away from air conditioning or heat vents. If root issues are suspected, carefully inspect the roots by removing the plant from the pot. If overwatering is confirmed and root rot is present, clean the roots, trim off mushy sections, and repot the plant in fresh soil.